Kyoto

Author: Edutraveller
Date written: 04/18/2003 09:29:08 PM
Last edited: 2003/05/04 12:44:12
Keywords: Kyoto, Japan regional guide, Heian Jingu, Kyoto guide, Japan travel guide

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Kyoto

The symbol of the city. The yellow form in the centre is an abbreviation of the character "kyou" from "Kyouto", meaning capital, and the purple circle symbolises the wheel of an imperial chariot.

The ancient Imperial Capital of Japan is one of the few places that is a must on almost any itinerary. With a wealth of temples, shrines and Nijo-jo (Nijo Castle, built by the former Tokugawa Shogunate), Kyoto has enough to keep a temple- and history-freak occupied for a week or more. Nearby is Nara, capital of Japan before Kyoto, where you can see the Daibutsu (great Buddha) and many more temples. Osaka is just an hour's train ride away to the south if you are looking for your next destination or want some of the bright lights of Japan's second city.

Kyoto is for Japanese the city that most clearly symbolises traditional Japan. If a place has that feeling of being from a past age, it is often referred to as a "little Kyoto". With the present population trends, that character should survive in this city. The population seems to have peaked at just less than 1.5 million people, although the number of households in the city is still increasing as the average family size continues to fall. As for most cities in Japan, the number of old people has increased dramatically at the expense of the younger population.

How these changes will affect the character of Kyoto remains to be seen. However, with seventeen world heritage sites within the city, changes will be few and its essential nature will be preserved. Kyoto is already a mix of ancient and modern, as the beauty of the ancient temples and castles mixes with a modern, busy city - the architecture of which is not always to the same standards. A cafe culture has existed for some time, and there are plenty of small coffee shops and tearooms for a break.

Getting there

Kyoto is located just west of the centre of Japan and just north of Osaka (one hour by train), west of Nagoya (again, one hour by shinkansen), and about three to five hours from Tokyo (depending on the train). Kyoto is a major station on the Tokaido line that runs from Tokyo to Osaka, and you can catch JR, Meitetsu and Kintetsu trains to the city.

Kyoto has an airport, but if you are flying internationally you should get a flight to Kansai (Osaka) or Nagoya airports, from either of which you can easily reach Kyoto. If you fly in to Narita (Tokyo), then it is a little further. If you are intending to make Kyoto your main stop, then it is better to try and find a flight to one of the closer airports as the train fare from Tokyo will cost you at least 10,000 Yen.

Coming from within Japan, Kyoto is easily reachable by JR and other lines. From anywhere in the north of Japan, you will probably have to come via Nagoya. From the west, if you are on the Japan Sea coast, it may be necessary to come through Tottori-Okayama-Osaka; from the southern coast, you should probably come through Osaka.

Things to see

Kyoto was the Imperial capital of Japan from 794 until 1867. In 794, the original Heiankyo was built, consisting of extensive grounds, gardens, and buildings, but the main Daigoku-den burnt down in 1177. It was never rebuilt. To celebrate the 1,100the aniversary of Kyoto in 1894, the city built Heian-jingu, a two-thirds scale reconstruction of the original Daigoku-den. This also burnt down in 1976, and the present building is a 1979 reconstruction.

The Shrine is dedicated to the emperor Kammu (737-806) who first made Kyoto the Imperial Capital, and to the father of the Meiji Emperor, emperor Komei who was the last to have permanent residence in Kyoto. The temple is approached through huge torii which were constructed in 1929 and stand 24 metres high. The main part of the complex is the Ote-mon (main gate), a two-story structure; the East Hall and West Hall; the Byakko-ro and Soryu-ro (White Tiger and Blue Dragon) towers, and then the Honden (where the spirits of the emperors are supposed to reside) behind the Daigoku-den.

The gardens of Heian Jingu cover over 30,000 square metres and include plants imported from Europe, although the overall effect is designed to represent the spirit of the Heian period.

Perhaps the most famous Zen temple in the world, Nanzen-ji is the home of Rinzai zen, a major Zen Buddhist sect. The temple consists of a palace donated to the sect by the retired emperor Kameyama in 1290 in reward for an exorcism conducted by the Zen monk Fumon. The emperor also became a student of Fumon, and eventually gave his whole palace to the sect. The buildings of Nanzen-ji were burnt down several times, sometimes by accident and sometimes by jealous rivals, and also suffered in the civil strife of the Onin Wars.

Nanzen-ji has been blessed with many patrons, and among those who donated grounds, buildings and the like are Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Tokugawa Ieyasu, and several emperors. This support vanished with the rise to prominence of Shinto after the Meiji Restoration, and Nanzen-ji was reduced to a fraction of its size when at its peak. There is still much to see, however. The main entrance is the San-mon (Mountain Gate) or Tenkanoryu-mon (Dragon Gate), one of the largest in Japan. The upper floor has a marvellous painted cieling.

After the gate, see the Hojo (Abbot's quarters) which consists of two separate buildings (the daihojo and shohojo). The latter is smaller but has many exquisite painted screens. Most of the sub temples are closed to the public, but Nanzen-in, one of the oldest, is open. Rebuilt in 1703, the temple houses the remains of the emperor Kameyama and his statue. The Chosho-in sub-temple provides vegetarian meals at lunch. Still older is the Tenjuan sub temple, rebuilt in 1602 and still standing today. The Hondo (main hall) contains a staute and self portrait of Fumon.

KYOTO PHOTO GALLERY

Click photos for larger images.

Kinkaku-ji or Temple of the Golden Pavilion is properly named Rokuon-ji or Deer Park Temple. One of the main attractions of Kyoto, the temple is dedicated to Kannon (Buddhist Goddess of Mercy)

Outside Japanese temples there is often a large bronze bowl where you can burn incense sticks (senkou). Allowing the smoke to wash over you purifies the body. Some temples are famous for the curative powers of the incense (such as Asakusa in Tokyo).

"Ema" at a temple in Kyoto. You write wishes on these little placards and then tie them outside the temple in order that they might come true.

The entrance gate or "mon" at Nijo-jo.

The lotus is the symbol of enlightenment in Buddhism. The flower symbolises the opening of the mind to the real essence of the universe.

Part of the roof of Kamomioya-jinja (Shimogamo Shrine)

Kakigori is shaved ice with a flavourful juice or syrup on top. Popular in summer, you often see this sold at matsuri (festivals).

Nature is very important in Japanese temple and domestic architecture. Where it can't be brought into the garden as here, it is "borrowed" by ensuring that views include the foothills around the temple.

Kyoto is a mix of the modern and ancient: and sometimes too close for comfort.

Before entering a Japanese temple or shrine, you are supposed to purify yourself by washing your hands in the chouzubachi at the entrance.

The Katsura-gawa (Katsura River) runs through the west side of Kyoto (another two rivers, Takano-gawa and Kamo-gawa, merge just near the Imperial Palace and join Katsura-gawa to the south of the city).